Q: I’ve seen several menopause-oriented brands selling anti-aging estrogen facial creams. Is there any science behind them?
Heated flashes, night sweats and vaginal dryness are common symptoms of menopause. But skin can also undergo changes during midlife, including sagging, thinning and drying.
Estrogen is key to maintaining skin integrity, says Dr. Susan Massick, a dermatologist at Ohio State University’s Wexner Medical Center. When estrogen levels drop during menopause, the skin may become thinner, have less collagen and elasticity, which can cause more dryness and wrinkles.
Some skin care companies sell estrogen-containing facial creams and serums – available over the counter or by prescription – that claim to prevent and reverse these changes. One doctor on Instagram she even said that applying a prescription vaginal estrogen cream to your face can raise collagen production and minimize dryness.
While this exploit of estrogen cream “makes sense in theory,” Dr. Massick said, we need more research to show it is safe and sound and effective. Here’s what we know.
Can topical estrogen benefit your skin?
In one review published in 2019researchers analyzed the results of about twenty studies. The study included menopausal and postmenopausal women who used topical estrogens – including in the form of gels, creams, ointments and patches – on the face, abdomen, buttocks, forearms and thighs. The authors concluded that it is “plausible” to conclude that estrogen can minimize wrinkles and improve skin dryness, texture and elasticity. However, the studies they reviewed had various limitations, including involving tiny groups of women. Some review authors were consultants for a pharmaceutical skin care company, which constitutes a conflict of interest.
Dr. Massick said we need more strict research to understand how effective and safe and sound topical estrogen products are and what concentrations and forms are best.
Estradiol, the dynamic ingredient in vaginal estrogen creams prescribed for vaginal dryness and pain during sex associated with menopause, is a potent and therapeutic form of estrogen, according to Dr. Mary Jane Minkin, an obstetrician-gynecologist at Yale Medicine.
She said some of her patients exploit it off-label to treat arid and wrinkled facial skin. However, it does not encourage its exploit – the dermatologists we talked to also did not recommend it because it has not been proven to be safe and sound and effective.
Vaginal creams are “not designed or intended for exploit on the face,” Dr. Massick said.
Estriol (a form of estrogen produced during pregnancy) and phytoestrogen (a plant compound that mimics estrogen in the body) are two ingredients often found in estrogen-based skin care products, Dr. Massick said. But research on them is also circumscribed.
Is topical estrogen exploit safe and sound?
Applying estrogen to the skin can cause irritation, and trying a recent topical product can lead to an allergic reaction, rash or redness, according to Dr. Jacqueline Watchmaker, a dermatologist in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Estrogen can too worsen any dark spots and discoloration or make blood vessels evident – she added; or it may worsen skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea, says Dr. Debra Jaliman, a dermatologist in Novel York.
However, the biggest question regarding topical estrogen is how much of the hormone gets absorbed into the bloodstream.
Dr. Minkin stated that only “minuscule” amounts of estrogen are absorbed when used vaginally, so it stands to reason that the same principles apply when used on the face.
However, until further research is carried out, Dr Massick suggested that women who have or are at increased risk of developing “hormone-dependent diseases” – such as breast, uterine, ovarian or polycystic ovarian cancer – should avoid using skin care products based on estrogens. products.
Due to potential safety concerns and lack of evidence of benefit, Dr. Watchmaker and other dermatologists have recommended not using estrogen for skin care until further research is conducted.
What actually works?
There are many well-researched and effective methods for addressing menopause and age-related skin problems, says Dr. Massick.
Prescription topical retinoids (such as tretinoin) and over-the-counter retinol can raise collagen and elastin, proteins that strengthen and plump the skin. They can also encourage cell turnover, which helps brighten skin and velvety fine lines, Dr. Watchmaker said.
She added that hyaluronic acid can aid minimize dryness. And antioxidants such as vitamin C AND niacinamide it can reduce redness, improve discoloration and improve skin texture, Dr. Jaliman said.
In-office treatments can also be helpful, Dr. Jaliman added. These include laser resurfacing, which stimulates collagen production and evens out skin tone; dermal fillers that add volume and velvety fine lines; and non-surgical skin tightening treatments that stimulate collagen production.
Daily exploit of sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is also key. Damage from ultraviolet radiation accelerates skin aging, and sunscreen will prevent problems like wrinkles and thinning from getting worse, Dr. Massick says.
If you’re not sure how to solve your skin problems, she recommended seeing a dermatologist who can create a customized skin care regimen for you. Also see your OB-GYN for aid with other menopause symptoms.