A group of Italian physicists dared to tinker with a conventional recipe cheese and black pepperA demanding Roman dish consisting of pasta, pecorino cheese and black pepper. In up-to-date testScientists say that they “scientifically optimized” the recipe, adding an ingredient: corn starch.
Cacio e pepe, or cheese and pepper, is a showcase of Italian cuisine, whose fresh ingredients give a distinct taste. According to the up-to-date newspaper, this dish was allegedly invented by shepherds, “who had to stuff their yucca with hypercaloric ingredients.” Today, this is the basis of classic Roman macaroninia, where chefs fascinated by tradition may not be kindly looking at scientific lessons about culinary thermodynamics.
The authors realized that they were walking on sensitive ground. “I hope that eight Italian authors are enough,” said Ivan di Terliszi, a statistical physicist at the Institute of Physics of Elaborate Systems Max Planck in Dresden, Germany, from the Apulia in Italy.
The recipe may be straightforward, but its proper performance is not so simple. The silky sauce combines when pecorino cheese and ground peppercorns are mixed with starch -rich water drained from cooked pasta. In this way, an emulsion will form perfectly – relaxation between substances that otherwise would not mix, as if oil and water form mayonnaise.
But as many chefs discovered, a mixture of cheese and steaming pasta water can cause catastrophic what scientists called “mozzarella phase”.
Balmy water causes whey proteins in cheese deform. Then they combine with each other or with casein, the second protein found in cheese, forming lumps.
Scientists wanted to find a certain way to avoid this sticky mess.
“It is very arduous to get the right balance,” said Fabrizio Olmed, a statistical physicist who worked on a up-to-date study and comes from Rome, where Some say The best in the world Cacio E Pepe is served in Felice A Testaccio. “And sometimes when you understand something correctly, you don’t understand what you did to make it good.”
Scientists heated different versions of the sauce using a Sous Vide machine, which maintains a constant water temperature. They also built a wooden platform for keeping a saucepan on the spot to ensure even heating. After heating, the sauce was spilled into Petri’s crazy, which was then placed on a cardboard box, the upper part of which was replaced with a crystal clear foil. The bulb lit Petri’s scarf from below. The resulting arrangement caused the cheese lumps to stand out as gloomy spots in the pictures made with an iPhone mounted on a tripod.
“None of our samples have been wasted,” said Giacomo Bartolucci, a biophysicist from the University of Barcelona and another author of the article. “Our friends came to say hello and see how they were going. And they helped us by eating all the samples. Dr. Bartolucci estimated that the team’s research included the consumption of 11 pounds of Pecorino cheese.
Scientists conducted an experiment at different temperatures and used various starch concentrations and discovered that the starch had a much greater impact on the consistency of the sauce. With enough starch, the whole process is “less sensitive to temperature errors” – we read in the article.
Starch consists of long molecules, called polymers. By absorbing water and swelling, polymers combine with casein and prevent whey proteins from accumulating.
The conventional method of mixing cheese with pasta water often turns out to be insufficient, because water does not contain enough starch. The method of scientists completely eliminates pasta water; Instead, corn starch bought in the store is dissolved in plain water, and then heats up before adding cheese. Scientists have calculated that the ideal starch concentration should be from 2 to 3 percent of the mass of cheese. (Their optimized recipe for “two hungry people” requires about ⅔ a glass of cheese and just one teaspoon of starch.)
Italian gourmets may be skeptical, but experts in the field of food sciences have found that research is solid.
“What these guests did was an impressive amount of work,” said Nathan Myhrvold, former technology director at Microsoft and culinary enthusiast, whose cookbook “Modernist Cuisine” is widely considered a Bible of molecular cuisine.
Even by praising Italian researchers for their perseverance in the utilize of starch, Dr. Myhrvold proposed another solution: adding sodium citrate, a widely available anticoagulant. He said that huge starch polymers that prevent breakup can also uninteresting the taste of cheese.
In a sense, the Italian generations Nonnas were scientists themselves, tried the recipes, watched the results and tried again.
“Cooking is chemistry. But above all experience, “said Lidia Bastianich, a pioneer of Italian cuisine in the United States. As the simplest scientific formula can be the most revolutionary, so the simplest pasta bursts with the most intense flavors.
“Simplicity” – said Mrs. Bastianich, “” is the most arduous thing to achieve. “