Dove’s Latest ‘Real Beauty’ Push – and Why Getting Rid of AI Will Be Harder Than You Think

Cosmetic brand Dove recently announced will not apply artificial intelligence (AI)-generated models in its advertising campaigns. But is this really an anti-AI stance, or just marketing of “inclusive” and “realistic” AI-generated images? In other words, is Dove trying to shape the ideals of beauty that AI presents to consumers, rather than abandoning its apply entirely?

Dove’s owner, Unilever, is one of the world’s largest, fast-growing, multinational consumer goods companies. But the values ​​of its brands differ dramatically, as highlighted by the legal action that Ben & Jerry’s filed against Unilever object to its ice cream being “sold in the occupied Palestinian territory.” The case was settled, with Ben & Jerry’s reportedly ordered by Unilever to avoid “straying into geopolitics”.

There are still tensions between the values ​​of Unilever’s brands and the values ​​of Unilever itself, actively uses AI in areas such as product development.

For example, although Dove has criticized its apply of artificial intelligence and computer-generated imagery (CGI) depicting humans, Dermalogica, another Unilever cosmetics brand, has used virtual human model as part of staff training. As such, Dove’s latest announcement and overall brand positioning should be understood as being linked to Unilever as a whole.

Position on beauty ideals

Founded in the USA in 1957, Dove gained fame for its “A real beauty” ethos in the 21st century. The brand’s effort to questioning societal standards of beauty include campaigns addressing issues related to hair, skin, facial features and body shape and size.

As Dove himself stated:We always show women, never models” Now Dove is taking it a step further, saying it won’t apply AI-generated images of people in its campaigns. But beyond flashy headlines, what does that mean?

As part of tests on the relationship between marketing, social justice and digital culture, I surveyed 400 people in the UK and US. The responses highlighted concerns about the apply of CGI and AI models in marketing.

Recent media coverage of Dove has portrayed its position on AI as a continuation of its position on the beauty and diversity of real people. Yet alongside Dove’s statements about AI models are details about what it has created to support “inclusive” apply of AI. So is Dove swearing by AI? Is it making a strategic decision to exclude AI images of humans from its campaigns and positioning itself as a leader in supposedly “inclusive” approaches?

As a commentary on how AI imagery can reinforce harmful beauty ideals, the brand released a compact film, The Code, as part of the Dove Self-Esteem project, which reflects on the ways brands are entangled in contemporary views on girls’ and women’s self-confidence.

Posted on the Dove US YouTube channel, the video is accompanied by text stating that in “an era where 90% of content is expected to be generated by AI by 2025,” Dove’s message “still rings true: stay lovely. One in three women feel pressured to change their appearance because of what they see online, even when they know the images are phony or AI-generated.”

However, the Dove website highlights its Real Beauty Prompt Playbookcreated to assist expand the representation of humans and beauty in AI-generated images. Does Dove’s Playbook conflict with his “true beauty vow” and commitment to staying away from AI? You could say so.

The Playbook was created “to assist set up-to-date digital standards for representation” and includes a glossary that aims to “inclusive prompts and realistic AI image generation.” Contrary to claims that the brand is taking an anti-AI stance, Dove’s Playbook suggests that it can actively contribute to the AI ​​landscape, including by establishing itself as an authority on what constitutes “inclusive” and “realistic” AI image generation in the beauty industry.

Indeed, Dove is one of many brands owned by Unilever, the parent company that has controversially been described as having developed a sense of corporate awarenessbut which opening States that it “uses AI to optimize our portfolio and drive growth.” It’s no surprise then that Dove’s stance on AI may be far less critical than headlines like “Dove goes anti-AI in new campaign” he suggested.

Dove’s decision not to feature AI models in its media but to create a Playbook to facilitate certain approaches to AI may send a mixed message. can’t cope with the fact that harmful uses of AI extend beyond the content of media representations.

Ultimately, Dove’s position seems to focus on “inclusive” approaches to AI and addressing issues of self-worth, rather than addressing the structural effects of AI, from its role in policing people and places to its impact on work and employment conditions.

As Dove puts it, “The potential of AI is both invigorating and frightening, especially in the area of ​​beauty.” Despite what some headlines suggest, the brand is not anti-AI. Instead, it continues to push the message of “real beauty” in a way that both praises and criticizes the potential applications of AI.

Dove and Unilever were contacted for comment but did not provide any comment at the time of publication.